unstable idlling-stalling im going nuts

[leadfoot6]

upping this old thread as i noticed i didn't write the fix.

issue was the TPS sensor.. installed a new one and most of the issue went away..
a second problem contributing to this idling issue aparently was bad contacts in the MAF sensor.. that also occasionally caused weird idling with rpm going up and down trying to stabilise. back then maf wasn't acting up that bad.. later it began throwing engine check light. so it could be an early sign..

Using an older thread that contains much pertinent information is always the most sensible way to do it, rather than having information scattered all over the place which can lead to potential confusion and loss of important information.

+1 for you.....and -1 for those who, despite this being explained to, persist in starting a new thread when it is not the common sense approach.

Those details are straight from the workshop manual, I can vouch they are correct - unless Mitsu has the pin number back to front too.

If you get funny readings or can't set it no matter what you do, the TPS needs swapping out. (I'm assuming the new TPS you put on there is from the wreckers, not a Mitsu dealer)

I adjusted the TPS on my TS by the book (same procedure) and still got clunky downshifts when coming to a stop, so I experimented by moving the adjustment in small steps until all was smooth. It's an option if everything else fails.

now see, i tried it that way with the first 2 terminals on the TPS (new by the way) with a 0 ohm readout. but when i try with the last 2 terminals then i get ohm readings. so that's my first problem, my second problem is, do i turn the tps till just non-continuity, or until its just continuity? i know this is quoted out of the online manual, my Haynes also says a different way, and my Gregory's says a 3rd way .

Also instead of opening a new thread, i thought i would ask here, ive done a manual conversion on my TJ a while ago, but i was wondering if there would be any benefits in using the manual ECU, or should i just stay with my auto ECU. im just not sure if fuel mapping is different in a manual ECU, or even idle is different.

thankyou for the replies guys

Someone else who qualifies for a "+1".

For clarity, rather than burying my response in the above text, what MadMax has suggested:

I adjusted the TPS on my TS by the book (same procedure) and still got clunky downshifts when coming to a stop, so I experimented by moving the adjustment in small steps until all was smooth. It's an option if everything else fails.

is, I believe, an acceptable method of adjusting the TPS by "trial and error" instead of attempting to use the rather tedious method of multimeters and feeler gauges.

In post #33, I asked how you have adjusted the TPS.

Many may try to reach for the workshop manual, read up on all the very detailed procedures, hook up the mutimeter and reach for the feeler gauges.

About 10 years ago a friend and fellow used car salesman had a TR/TS Magna that was misbehaving in the transmission department and asked my advice.

After checking the basics and not establishing anything obvious, we went to a transmission repairer who I had heard good things about via recommendation.

https://ds-jones-automatics.com.au/

Seven Hills, Sydney.

After doing some basics and road testing, all he needed to do to fix the previously errant transmission behaviour was to mildly adjust the TPS "by eye".

He did not use any instruments or tools, other than a 7mm(from memory) socket to undo the TPS securing bolts and gently rotate it.

After 2 more quick road tests and further small TPS adjustments, the transmission was shifting sweetly.

Again I emphasise, nothing else was done.

No fluid was added.

NO MONEY CHANGED HANDS.

I can fully recommend him, and have to others.

As MadMax points out above, and as I learned from watching Dave Jones "do his thing", it is possible to make significant improvements to the operation of, in this case, a TR/TS Magna automatic transmission.

(Dave has since retired, but the 'shop has been purchased by one of his former apprentices, and they still do good, honest work)

At around about the same time, I was struggling with putting a rather neglected Nissan R31 Skyline(series iii/1990) back on the road that my used car yard employer had given to me for free to use as parts for my own then current R31(series i/1988).

It had potential and was a later model than the other R31 that I was currently driving, so I slowly spent quite considerable time, but not a lot of money refurbishing.

This "freebie" had a transmission that was shifting in a less than optimal manner.

After doing similar adjustments to what had been recently shown to me by D.S. Jones, I was easily able to get a smooth, completely adequate transmission operation.

This was before a fluid change and later, a second hand home fitted transmission cooler added.

In the end, it had a transmission that was robust, trouble free and shifted sweetly, all for the price of a fluid change and a s/h trans cooler.

I kept that Skyline as my "daily", and only finally disposed of it in 2016, after keeping it as a "just in case" backup for 12 months even after I had purchased my TL AWD in 2015.

All that is necessary to carry out adjustments to the TPS is to do them very gradually.

Adjust it by a very small amount in one direction.

If it improves, keep adjusting in the same direction.

If it gets worse, try again in the opposite direction.

Rinse and repeat.

Start off by using the 50/50 "middle" position as a starting point.

A close look at the white factory applied paint markings on the TPS will show what I am referring to by "middle".

P.S. My TL AWD at a tiny touch over 200,000km is still shifting perfectly so I have not needed to try the above method yet, but if it ever starts to show the need I will be attempting the above method if necessary.

P.P.S. The above is not a "cure all", but just an easy shortcut way where an adjustment of the TPS is the cure.